Orko

This character was chosen as part of a Masters of the Universe group. I’ll be making the Sideshow Collectibles version, which has beautiful detail and textures, and lessens the need for creative “floating” solutions. I’m entertaining the idea of a hoverboard, but SafetyMe says “nah”. 

orko_masters-of-the-universe_gallery_5c4d03d437d915049089287684623564.jpg
Orko Statue by Sideshow Collectibles
  • Start Date: 7/31/2019
  • Due Date: 4/03/2020 
  • Elements: Inner tunic, under sleeves, outer tunic, scarf/collar, belt & pockets, chest piece, hat, wand, rings, hands, ears, eyes, makeup
  • Current Cost: $6
  • New Adventures: Weathering

8/19/2019 – Now that my summer events are done, I’m ready to get started on the building part of this project. My spreadsheet is in place, and I know which vendors I’ll need to stalk for sales in the coming months. I’ve pulled foam, thermoplastic, and LEDs from my stash for the staff, chest piece, eyes, and ears. After I draft the robe patterns and do those mock-ups, I’ll take a day to seek out fabric, but this week, I’m looking forward to starting the hat.

Theatrical Millinery is fascinating, and I rarely get the chance to make hats from scratch. Orko’s topper will be the most exciting to date. The special considerations here are the brim angle (low and wide to obscure the face but to still allow for shoulder shrugging), the scrunched bend in the cone, and the ear holes.

I started with poster board, drawing the inner and outer circles via chain method. My guide for sizing was the width of the poster board and a widened head measurement of 23″ (accounting for the ear headband and fabric thickness). I marked the front and back seams on the brim and cut the front seam in order to manipulate the brim angle. To do this, I held the top edges together, then overlapped the bottom edges until the shape was close. I taped both edges down, then took the leftover corners of the poster board and taped them at complementary angles to the sides of the brim. This forms the triangle opening at the front of the hat. I marked the new center front seam. There was now a point at the top center front, so I clipped that back down to a circle and moved on to the cone. Using packing paper, I guesstimated and marked along the fold a 23″ tall cone (my previous head measurement), then used the chain method to draw the curve at the bottom. With a flexible curve, I marked 11.5″ along the edge and connected each end point. I taped the back seam and attached it to the brim.

HatPatterning
The eyes are tested with LED string lights, packing foam (to diffuse), and a yellow gel sheet.

All of the pieces have been noted to remind me to add seam allowances, and I’ll true-up the outer edge into a circle once it’s flat.

8/24/2019 – I whipped up some mock-ups for the sewn portion of the project this weekend. There will be a kirtle/gown/inner tunic garment and an outer short robe – similar to a Jedi. In an effort to keep the base layer construction as simple as possible, I started with a princess dress pattern, McCall’s 5499. It has the appropriate amount of yardage for a gown that will obscure my feet, and it has long, narrow sleeves. I shortened the pattern above and below the waist and swapped in a zipper for lacing since the back won’t be seen. This design has many seams , but the fabric will have stitched striations in the texture to hide those.

The short robe was simply draped over the dress. I’ve made similar garments in the past, so this was a very quick process. At this point, I need to true-up the armscye and adjust the skirting angle. However, I realized that the mock-ups look terribly unstructured. I’ve decided to build a corset that will define the overall shape and create a smooth surface upon which the armor and belt assembly can sit without shifting. Traditionally, Orko is a tiny, floating triangle in a red robe, so that should be the primary focus even with this gorgeous source material.

img_20190825_011543

8/25/2019 – Today I cut the armor shapes, and I’m working on the “O” motif in Krita. My goal is to send the design to Silhouette’s cutting software so that I don’t have to cut the craft foam by hand. The shapes will then be adhered to 4mm EVA foam.

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s